Everything here is done by hand, and as carfeully as possible. No yeast, no oak, no messing around. Bottled unfiltered and unfined, it is a textural marvel, filled with ripe lemon, a touch of barley and a delicate aroma of chamomile. It is salty and fresh and has a lovely long flavour. Really succulent - a perfect wine for seafood.

This winery is vinous history, if a little obscure! The coastal region of Getariako Txakolina is in northern Spain, and grows the unique grape Hondarrabi Zuri. Most of the region makes fairly bland wine, a sort of watery Pinot Grigio-esque style that is fresh but lacks flavour. Husband and wife Iñaki and Rosa Maria Etxeberria are the antithesis of this, and make distinctive wines, wines that speak of their place and come from lovingly tended and organically farmed grapes. Perched high up on a clay slope, their ancient farmhouse has been handed down to the family for generations. The locals have long affectionately nicknamed it, Bengoetxe, which means ‘come home’ in Basque. The vineyard area (dtaing back over 70 years) was replanted in 2001 and made organic from the get-go, the first producer in the region to do so. Organic from the beginning, certification came in 2007, the first producer in the Basque Country to do so. Making only two wines, both from the same grape, shows the passion and dedication of this couple. They coax a myriad of flavours from their vineyard, and the wines are aged on lees to build texture. This is real Basque Country wine, and a treasured puzzle piece of Basque winegrowing history.