Welcome to a very different wine from Champagne. Ratafia is an ancient fortified wine crafted from unfermented grape juice (known as must), which is fortified with a grape-based spirit. Ratafia is often kept in a barrel for many years, like a Muscat, with the result a luscious, warming spirit to finish off a big Champagne tasting. This beautiful wine from Vincent Couche is made from biodynamically farmed Chardonnay grapes, and it's a hedonistic wine of honey, cooked peach, ginger and dried herbs with an utterly seamless flow of flavour.

The Cotes de Bar feels like the forgotten end of Champagne. Here, far south of the famous Champagne houses, the hills are punctuated by small holdings of vines that deliver pockets of promise and the odd taste of magic. Here, Vincent Couche biodynamically farms his family's 13-hectare property and delivers nothing less than excellent Champagne. Grapes are handpicked and hand sorted in the vineyard, the cellar only uses wild yeasts and the Champagne releases are made with little or no preservatives. Yes, we're a long way from the norm here, and gee Vincent's expressive and delicious wines are worth the trip. More than just Champagne, Couche also makes a fascinating range of other drinks here too, including fortifieds and still wines that are really something else.