'Appassimento' means drying grapes, and it is an ancient tradition throughout Italy for adding a bit more oomph to reds. Here it gives an extra lusciousness that is so delicious and welcome, with notes of dark chocolate, black pepper and lavender on top of fresh red and more dried black fruit flavour.

Marsala, where the Tenuta Bellamora winery sits, is probably more famous for fortified wines than it is for bright, organic modern reds and whites, but it is here that we find some of Italy's greatest finds. Indeed, we stumbled across these wines at an Italian roadshow a year or so back, and we were immediately in love. The simple, but rather beautiful, label sets the tone for Tenuta Bellamora. The wines here are crafted by Biagio and Nicola Di Girolamo, who have embraced organic grape growing throughout their range for the past 20 years. The core of their wine business is a commitment to the classical Sicilian indigenous grapes of Grillo, Inzolia, Catarratto, Zibibbo, Nero d'Avola, and Perricone, but complemented by modern varieties like Pinot Grigio and Merlot, with everything made in this joyous, lively style that we can never argue with.