This is a classic method ancestral wine made using Chardonnay, that has been aged on lees for more time than is usual for these wines. This builds in extra layers of texture and complexity - it's richer than the other sparklings from the estate, with a line of fresh acidity. Grapefruit and brioche combine for a very classy sparkling.

France is home to many of the world's greatest and most famous wine regions - places of esteem and history, names like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Hermitage and Champagne. For all these storied regions, there are even more tiny, almost forgotten hamlets in all corners of the country, where wine has been made for centuries, and most of it consumed locally. We're thankful in Australia, for diligent wine importers who scour Europe for these delights, and bring them back to our shores. This is the story of one such estate. Alain and his son Elie Renardat live in the region of Cerdon, to the south of the Jura, in eastern France. Here, at the soot of the Swiss alps, they grow the varieties of both the Jura and of Beaujolais, and are most famous for their sparkling wines, made in the 'ancestral method', commonly known these days as Pet Nat. They are known to produce the best sparkling wines of the region, and work organically and by hand for everything from the vineyard to the winery. These are joyful wines that are refreshing and complex, and are best enjoyed in their youth.