Padthaway is a smallish region, around 40km inland from the south coast of South Australia, not far from Mt Benson. From here come perfectly ripened Sangiovese grapes that John Innes crafts into a satisfying, warming red. It has quiet nose, with a mix of red fruits and some fresh herbs - fennel and bay leaf. There's rhubarb, sour cherry and some dusty tannins to close.

We’re not the most sentimental of people, but even we’ll admit that when it comes to wine, some things are just meant to be. Take Ottelia Wines, for example. Winemakers John and Melissa moved to their patch of land in Coonawarra with the intention of only staying there for one season - the eventual aim was to move onto one of Australia’s famed wine regions once they’d honed their skills - but once that first harvest was bottled, they were hooked. The limestone soils, the iconic Aussie gum trees lining the vineyard, the way the grapes would ripen… it was all a bit too perfect, especially for John; a man who’d fallen in love with winemaking at the age of 17, and who has never stopped being amazed and enamoured by the process since. He knows the Limestone Coast well, its wine growing regions of Coonawarra, Wrattonbully, Mount Benson and Mount Gambier, their different soils, their climates. As is increasingly the case with 21st century Aussie produce, Ottelia wines are stripped-back, direct, and are all about letting the fruit itself do the heavy lifting. There’s no excessive oak, no messing around - this is back-to-basics viticulture, in which the grape, the soil and the sunshine are the undeniable stars of the show.