A wonderful mash-up of Pinot Grigio and Friulano, left on skins for a month or so and then bottled without filtration. Unusual? Yes. Delicious? Definitely. Plenty of varied citrus flavours, some salt and yeast and tonic water. Faintly nutty, round and zippy at the same time, lots going on. Savoury more than anything.

Moondarra is the brainchild of Neil Prentice, one of Walhalla’s more eccentric winemakers. Not that eccentricity is by any means a bad thing in the wine industry; indeed, it is from the oddballs and lone voices that most of the interesting and groundbreaking produce of the wine world comes. To give you an example of Moondarra’s singular vision and sense of humour, just take a look at the name of their leading Pinot Noir - ‘Conception’ - so called, due to the fact that Prentice’s eldest son was conceived in the middle of the vineyard. Nice! It isn’t all jokes and oddities, though. Moondarra is a leading winery in the field of natural, zero intervention viticulture, and is blazing a trail throughout this scene due to the determination and dedication the vintners have; dedication for producing highly characterful wines packed full of features, which really could only come from this corner of the planet. Prentice and his brood proudly state that their vines have never seen a single chemical fertiliser, have never been irrigated, and are cropped and trimmed as infrequently as possible. Why? Because this winery is on a personal mission to produce wines which contain the very essence of the land the grapes are grown on, and are full of expression and unique features, with nothing lost along the way.