What a lovely, elegant wine! Equal parts Pinot Noir, Syrah and Gamay, it's fresh and breezy, with unripe cherry skin, red berries, and a silken palate. Soft and gentle, but not without precision and direction. There's a gentle wash of tannin to keep things on track. Delicious drinking.

Bernice Ong and Julian Forwood are South Australian wine industry veterans, although they probably wouldn't like us referring to them as such! Young in years and younger at heart, they have a serious amount of experience under their belt, ranging from Yalumba to Wirra Wirra, from marketing to winemaking. Armed with such talents, they form a formidable duo, whether it be in making wine, selling it or just drinking it. With a home base in the McLaren Vale, they formed Ministry of Clouds in 2012 and released their first wines in 2015. They manage a vineyard planted with Tempranillo, Carignan, Mencía and Picpoul, and buy some Grenache. They also look further afield, to the Clare Valley and to Tasmania, where they indulge their passion for Riesling and Chardonnay respectively. Their style is complex and serious, detailed and fresh. They produce wines of substance and nuance, and if you are not acquainted with their style, well... what are you waiting for?