Don't be fooled by the colour - this isn't some heavy, sweet old school rosé of headaches past. Instead, this is rosé at its most uncompromising. Crafted from biodynamically farmed Cinsault, Carignan & Mourvèdre grapes, it feels halfway between textural rosé and a light red, with all sorts of shades of strawberry and cherry and brightness, but all delivered with a creaminess of texture and finish. No journey down the serious rosé rabbit hole is complete without trying one of those impressive (but not inaccessible) Languedoc beauties.

When Olivier Jullien took over the family domaine in 1985, he was an outsider. Back then, the Terrasses du Larzac region his family farmed was just another part of the Languedoc - a giant region of southern France famous for making cheap, unsexy reds. But Jullien saw the promise, converted his land to biodynamic viticulture, and turned unfashionable into low-key cool. Nowadays, he controls over 18 hectares of unique vineyard sites and has created a legacy with wines that feel special. Drawn from gnarled old vines off some of the highest altitudes in the region, the reds here (usually based around Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre) plus the rosé have an exoticness and an uncommon depth. Oh, and the rare white that uses grapes like Chenin Blanc and 60% Carignan Blanc? If you ever see one of those, dive in too!