From the famed Malakoff vineyard in the Pyrenees in central Victoria, this is a Syrah of concentration, acidity and wonderful balance. Generous in that way that all Aussie Syrah is, but with oodles of spice, char and a topnote of floral delicacy to charm. Ample, round and plush, it carries all the dark cherry and berry fruit with pepper, charcoal and jasmine. Very good.

Meet Maree Collis and Ray Nadeson, the scientists-turned-wine wizards at Lethbridge Wines. PhDs in hand, they ditched labs for vineyards in 1996, joined by friend Adrian Thomas. Their scientific selection of the Lethbridge site, due north-west of Geelong has long since borne fruit, with the discovery that the land was once home to a vineyard in the 1870s, originally planted by Swiss settlers. This home vineyard was replanted by Collis and Nadeson, and these days is managed using sustainable principles, informed by organic and biodynamic practices. Ray comments that "Winemaking is not really that different to science, both are creative and both involve 99% perspiration, 1% inspiration." More than 25 years after they started, it's fair to say both have been put into practice! Lethbridge Wines enjoy global acclaim, adorning the tables of elite restaurants everywhere. Plus, Ray and Maree aren't slowing down, introducing new labels - look out for Between Five Bells, il Modo, and Nadeson Collis. Great drinking abounds.