This is probably one of the less provocative wines in the Les Fruits range, but only because it shows more about McLaren Vale Grenache fruit than anything else. Sourced from the 80-year-old Tullah Vineyard, this red is a showcase for the multi-faceted magic of Aussie Grenache, with its earthy red and blackberry fruit, then a saline, tangy, dried-spice flecked finish. It's meaty, spicy and seriously involving wine that is incredibly impressive.

Les Fruits is the work of Tim Stock, the quietly spoken Sydney sommelier-turned-distributor-turned-winemaker. Tim famously won the Best Australian Sommelier title in 2002 (just a few years before our own somm Banjo won it), working at an array of Sydney fine-dining restaurants. In 2012, he decided to start a little distribution company while working as a somm at Aria in Sydney to help sell some mates' wine, and soon enough, he built a portfolio of local wines and highly fancied imports (including Australia's finest collection of Georgian wines), before starting his own winemaking project on the side. Tim, with all his years working with some of the world's great natural wines, gravitated towards minimal intervention styles, which is reflected in his Les Fruits wines. Made with care by Tim and some of his friends in the Adelaide Hills, the ethos starts by using grapes grown organically or biodynamically from vineyards across the Hills, McLaren Vale and the Barossa. Winemaking is traditional, or as Tim says, 'lazy', with a 'do nothing unless it needs to be done' philosophy with no fining, no filtration, and only 'homeopathic' doses of sulphur before bottling. While that sounds like a high potential for wildness, these are, instead, thoughtful, refined wines we really like.