AJ Hoadley from La Violetta makes wines in picturesque Denmark, in the wild hinterlands of Western Australia. Some of his favourite wines are based on the granite soils of Mt Barker and the clays around Denmark, and this Shiraz is a perfect example of that. Glossy fruit to open - blackberry and dark plum, with loads of pepper and cinnamon rushing in behind. There's a faint herbal edge to the fruit that keeps it cool, and the palate sashays this way and that with great verve. Lots going on here, with plenty to like. The only way is Up!

The Great Southern is a GIANT wine region, with a solid 2.5-hour drive from end to end. Spanning the highest mountains in WA right through to empty (and probably shark-infested) beaches, it should be no surprise that this area throws up some beautifully diverse flavours that translate directly into the expressive wines of La Violetta. Andrew (AJ) Hoadley has been called an iconoclast of Australian wine, although he'd probably be the first to say that he's just trying to make the kind of wines he'd most like to drink. Think classic Aussie grapes, with a big focus on the Western Australian heroes of Shiraz & Riesling, but leave the rule book behind. We're talking no filtration, wild fermentation, and only the lightest fining before bottling. No trickery, just deliciousness, with a few umlauts for good measure. The result is a set of wines that have plenty to say about the different regional highlights of the vast Great Southern, with a real sense of presence and power.