With a combination of old vine Tempranillo, Garnacha and Viura, this full bodied red feels like it comes from a different, slower time. It’s savoury and detailed, with black fruit and coal dust and dried plums, plus this wonderful blackness and thick cut tannins and gravelly edges. Complexity and beauty.

Jose Gil is the tiny project label of young Spanish vigneron Jose and Vicki Gil, invented to celebrate the naked glory of Riojan wine with minimal artifice. Drawn from a pocket-sized plot around the town of San Vicente, this is a label of contrast to the mass-market wines that this famous Spanish region is more acquainted with. From the outset, this is made differently. The vineyards are farmed organically, the grapes are picked by hand, the wine is fermented wild, matured in very old oak/concrete tanks, and bottled without fining or filtration. The result is easily the most lucid, detailed Riojan Tempranillo celebrations you’ll try.