You don't see much Arneis from South Australia, let alone made as a skin contact wine. So this is a rare bird indeed! The fruit is grown in Kuitpo, in the Adelaide Hills. It sees 2 weeks of skin contact and this results in flavours of marmalade, cooked pear and peach and a wonderfully deep and rich palate that is held in line by zesty, citrussy acidity and a twang of tannin. Delicious.

James Erskine walks two paths as top sommelier and winemaker, and he does it so naturally you’d think there were two of him. Try Sommelier of the Year, top of the class at his Court of Masters exams, Young Gun of Wine Winemaker’s Choice 2013, and Len Evans Scholar 2019. Leave some for the rest of us! While Erskine retains ‘somm tricks’ up his sleeve, farming and winemaking are now the focus. The philosophy is natural, eschewing manipulation and additions; they haven’t used sulphur since 2015! The wines are, quite literally, wild. Put it this way, he’s learnt the ‘rules’ of the game, and he knows when to break them. Erskine adopts a biological farming system with the help of legendary grower Fiona Wood in McLaren Vale, while tending to his own in Adelaide Hills. Above ground, he uses aerated compost teas to build the plants’ defences against mildew. On the ground, Jauma has introduced some 26 cover crops in the vineyard and his cherry orchard to increase water use efficiency and disease resistance, resulting in healthier vines and wines without the need for sulphur in the vineyard or winery. Pretty neat huh?