Graciano is the red grape that famously gives Tempranillo a bit of oomph in its Spanish homeland. We're not in Spain here, with Bryan Currie instead using grapes sourced from the Hilltops (home of NSW's best cherries, FYI) to turn out a superstar Tempranillo Graciano blend that has all the medium-bodied milk chocolate and earthy dark fruit and all smooth edges. Dripping in trophies and gold medals, this is such a charmer.

While the story of Hungerford Hill goes all the way back to 1967, when the Hungerford family first started planting vines in the Hunter Valley, it's the modern history of this winery that is the important bit. Now once again a family-owned business, and with a portfolio of famous old Hunter Valley vineyards and more wines from the cooler, wilder parts of NSW, Hungerford Hill is back (with a vengeance). You can blame Chief Winemaker Bryan 'BC' Currie for the newness. Bryan famously studied paleontology at university before becoming a winemaker, but there are no dinos here - instead, he produces a clever range that covers everything from the country's best Fiano, superb Tumbarumba Chardonnay & Pinot, a whole array of spicy Hilltops reds, and some of the best preservative-free reds in the Hunter.