What a delightful, flavoursome modern rosé this is. Grown organically at altitude in the King Valley, this sangiovese rosé comes from deep red gravel soils, and it shows in the wine's poise. Pale pink in the glass, with pink grapefruit, wild strawberry and blood orange, plus a floral rosehip lift. The palate stays dry and savoury, with fine acidity and a gentle, easy texture.

It's a well-worn path for sommeliers to dabble in some winemaking, but few have thrown themselves in quite as far as George McCullough. George, who made a name for himself as a sommelier in Melbourne restaurant institutions like Grossi Florentino & the Builders Arms, has taken over the management of a forty-year-old, organically-farmed vineyard (that was destined to be pulled out) in the beautiful Cathedral Ranges of Central Victoria. The first few vintages of the GUM Chardonnay from his pocket-sized, two-hectare block are now out in the wild, complemented by a small range of wonderful minimalist Victorian wines of charisma and personality, including a lovely light red, textural rosé and a Heathcote Durif.