L'Orange - an orange wine! Most white wine is made by pressing the grapes and quickly separating the juice from the skins. Orange wine skips that step and lets the juice sit on the skins for a while, giving it a deeper golden colour, more texture, and a gentle grip on the finish. This one is a blend of Riesling and Semillon, with aromas of orange blossom, lemon juice, mandarin and barley sugar. The palate is round and generous, with a fresh, tea-like quality and enough lively acidity to keep things bright and refreshing.

Ryan O'Meara started Express Winemakers with a clear purpose: find the forgotten and overlooked vineyards scattered across Western Australia's Great Southern, farm them organically, and make wines that actually taste like somewhere. That means in the vineyard - no irrigation, no synthetic chemicals, no fussing about with things that don't need fussing. The fruit is hand-harvested, fermented with wild yeasts, and moved around as little as possible. Ryan and his business partner Pete Ikstrums have been quietly building one of the most exciting small operations in the country since 2011, leasing and managing vineyards across the Mount Barker and Frankland subregions of the Great Southern. The cool climate and ancient decomposed granite soils of the region lend themselves to low-yielding vines that pack serious flavour into every bunch.