Margaret River is the Aussie king of medium-weight Cabernet Sauvignon styles, and this one shows off the grape's friendlier side. Blackcurrant, ripe plum and dark cherry fruits are the first flavours here, with a gentle lift of oak spice and a savoury hint of bay leaf. Soft tannins keep it smooth rather than chewy, while just enough acidity stops the juicy fruit from feeling too much or making it too heavy.

Usually in the wine world, you find a place to start a winery (or plant a vineyard), and then when it gets successful, you then parlay into a fully functioning farm, plus weddings, boutique accommodation or an on-site cheese factory. But the Driftwood Estate story went the other way - started by Tom and Helen Galapoulos, they turned what was a country retreat into a wine business, planting vines on their patch of dirt in the 'dress circle' of Margaret River wine, aka Caves Road, Wilyabrup. Flash forward a few decades, and Driftwood Estate now has the accommodation, an impressive restaurant and a full wedding venue. Luckily, the wines are pretty smart too, with some classy, classically savoury Margaret River red, white and rosé featuring plenty of interesting, not-your-usual suspects (like the excellent rosé and straight Petit Verdot).