A knock out wine - so much going on. Macerated on skins for 3 weeks, then aged in old oak and an amphora, it is very fine and elegant! Tantalising aromas of mandarin, nectarine and honeycomb interweave with dandelion and crushed rocks. The finish is rich yet with a slick of tannin. Special, if uncommon.

Jérôme Bretaudeau of Domaine de Belle-Vue is one of the leading lights in the most western region of the Loire Valley, Muscadet. This is the forgotten edge of the Loire Valley - the Chenins, Sauvignons and Cabernet Francs of further inland taking most of the headlines. And yet, these are some very serious wines - they dance with freshness and are filled with subtle details. This shouldn't be surprising, of course - he works as the world's best winemakers do - with old vines, picking fruit by hand, and not a lot of it, and then fermenting the wines with native yeasts and letting them rest until they are ready. Jérôme set up on his own in 2005, having made wine for others for the previous 10 years, most notably one of his neighbours (and probably the best-known Muscadet producer) - Jo Landron, at Domaine de la Louvetrie. Today, Domaine de Belle-Vue one of the leading lights in the region and the quality of his wines is outstanding, indeed there is an underground buzz on these wines amongst France’s best wine bars and bistros.