Dungeon Gully sounds wild, but it's purely the wonderfully evocative name for the road that Delatite sits on. This spicy and taut red is made from Malbec and Merlot and feels every bit the cool climate red, but with a lovely blue fruit flourish. Blackberry, blueberry, plums and mint, it's ripe but savoury with tight tannins and a cool minty vibe from start to finish.

If you've ever driven to the snowfields of Mt Buller in the Victorian High Country, you would have gone straight past the front gate of Delatite wines. Here, surrounded by steep mountains in the crisp air of Mansfield, lies one of the vineyard treasures of NE Victoria, where since the late 1960s, there has been a tradition of finely tuned aromatic white wines and gloriously spicy reds. But don't think this is an old-school producer. With 2nd generation Ritchie family member David at the helm, Delatite has evolved, with a switch to biodynamic farming, strictly wild fermentations and an embrace of natural and lo-fi wine styles driving the wines to new heights. In particular, Gewürztraminer and Riesling are sublime here, tapping into the more-than-fifty-year-old vines to produce extraordinary white wines of intensity rarely seen in Australia. But don't miss the interesting blends, sophisticated Chardonnay & proudly peppery Shiraz.