This a wonderfully taut and racy style of Albariño with mouth-watering acidity around a dense core of fleshy fruit, with a marked salinity on the impressively long finish. Expect a mouth-watering, chiselled texture alongside flavours of grapefruit, citrus pith and jasmine. This has lovely drive and energy and will instantly wow alongside any seafood—first class.

We're on the north-western coast of Spain here - an oceanic, sunny spot that is best known (wine-wise) for the Albariño grape. Like many contemporary Rías Baixas vineyard owners, Alberto Cabaco made his fortune in Galicia’s lucrative fishing industry. Retired and with no children, he returned to his birthplace of Gondomar, a village nestled among lush Atlantic forests of the Miñor Valley in the northern reaches of the O Rosal subregion. With no wine background, he bought land and planted a vnieyard, and convinced young sommelier-turned-winemaker Jorge Marcote to join him and make great wine. Marcote first rebuilt and then replanted the terraces of the vineyard to Albariño (of course) and other local varieties - Caiño Blanco, Loureiro and Treixadura, matching each variety to one of the slope’s five different orientations. He makes wines with no mukcing around - just great grapes turned into delicious wines. Without doubt, this is an address to watch - if you think of dry German Riesling meets Chablis, you're on the right track.