For all the wildness, this remains a beautiful and indeed even quite pretty rosato/rosé. Made from a smorgasbord of indigenous grapes, but mainly Chiavennasca (local Nebbiolo), this beautifully textured, high-toned natural rosé had just one night of skin contact - which means it retains freshness and light rather than something more full-bodied. Strawberry, creamed cranberry and just a little meaty earth at the edges, this particularly has lots of acidity, which only enhances the freshness.

Barbacan isn't a winery; it's a family of revered wine growers from Valtellina, the wild Italian region that feels like grape growing on the edge of the world. Here, on the steep sides of ancient glacial valleys, Angelo Sega and his sons Luca and Matteo grow the local specialty Chiavennasca (which we know as Nebbiolo) in impossibly hard-to-maintain terraced plots and crafting wonderfully handmade, natural alpine reds of finesse and surprising power. But this isn't another natural Italian wine producer devoted to a singular style. Barbacan has recently released a sublime rosato, which showcases how Nebbiolo/Chiavennasca can also deliver absolutely top-draw savoury rosé (or, indeed, rosato). There's more than just Chiavennasca in the Sega vineyards, with obscure local grapes Róssola, Rossolino Rosa, Brugnòla, Chiavennaschino, Pignòla and Negrera also planted.