With no 'dosage' (sugar) added, this was always destined to be a dry, perfumed and fine-boned sparkling wine of minerally freshness and a real sense of life. It smells of white flowers, a little beeswax and citrus, before a crisp, fine-honed palate that feels like standing underneath a waterfall. Just when you think this will be a one-trick citrusy pony, there's a little brioche and lemon curd from lees ageing that adds a whole other dimension.

AT Roca is Agusti Torello (and Roca for 'rock', in a nod to the rocky soils that make this region famous), who was formerly the head of the Torello cava house and is now off doing his own (organic) thing. Here, we're in the northern heart of the Penedès DO - aka Cava HQ - and Agusti crafts brilliantly detailed wines. All fruit for this label is organic, hand-picked and comes from an array of 32 sustainable old vine parcels (with 70% from own vineyards and others owned by three families with whom they work closely) and the results speak for themselves. In a region where lots of cava can be rather simple and affable, these minerally wines celebrate soil types and expression of the different grape varieties. Ultimately, AT Roca is making next-level Cava is comparable more to grand Champagne than anything else.