Blackberries. That's the main character in this spicy and chunky Barbera sourced from a vineyard at Kuitpo on the McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills border. There's a line of herbs and a little dried leaves, then plenty of plum and blackberry liqueur fruit. Medium-bodied, but kind of hearty, this is full of heart and soul.

Aptitude Wines is the new label of Greg Clack, the Chain of Ponds winemaker who has his fingers in all sorts of pies all over the Adelaide Hills. In particular, Greg loves the diversity the Hills offers, with sites that can make full-bodied reds and other spots that can make ultra-cool, refined fresh white wines. This Aptitude label is founded on 'the principle of precision and restraint', which basically translates into a lineup of wines that lean towards refinement and delicacy - and gee, they're impressive drinks. What's even more entertaining is the diversity: Greg has focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which are usual for the Hills, but also on Nebbiolo and a range of Italian varieties. His philosophy is a respect for classic European traditions, adapted thoughtfully to Australian conditions. To get into the winemaking nitty-gritty, it translates to wild-yeast fermentation, restrained oak, and a big focus on celebrating different vineyard expressions (and the joy of the Adelaide Hills).