Ophrys is a delicious identity crisis in the best possible way. Pale reddish-pink in the glass, it opens with wild strawberries, red cherry, orange zest and a distinctly herbal, almost forest-floor lift. On the palate it’s textured and gastronomic, with bright acidity, delicate tannins and subtle bitter notes of grapefruit and blood orange peel. Light on its feet but seriously complex, it finishes long, mineral and quietly mesmerising. Serve it slightly chilled and watch it evolve.

Let’s head to Orschwihr, just south of Colmar, where Domaine Valentin Zusslin has been quietly doing exceptional things since 1691, for thirteen generations! This is living, breathing Alsace history, whilst wildly relevant. Today the reins are held by siblings Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin, a dream duo who took over in 2000 and pushed the estate firmly into cult territory. Certified organic since 1997 and biodynamic since 2000 (before it was cool), the Zusslins farm with horses, plant trees, keep bees, and basically treat their vineyards like a self-sustaining ecosystem rather than a monoculture. The vibe? Deep respect for nature, zero shortcuts, maximum expression. Their vines stretch across some of Alsace’s most exciting sites - Bollenberg, Clos Liebenberg and the Pfingstberg Grand Cru - with old vines rooted in hard Jurassic limestone. Everything is hand-harvested, gently handled, and fermented with wild yeasts. No make-up, no tricks, just terroir doing its thing. Ophrys is a perfect snapshot of their mindset: creative, boundary-pushing, and totally unbothered by categories. Red? White? Rosé? Ophrys just smiles and pours itself another glass.