This is brilliantly complex yet oh-so-drinkable at the same time. This Nascetta (a native Piedmont white variety) from the legendary local Conterno family shows notes of candied lemon and salinity from top to bottom. It's zippy and fresh, with aromas moving toward cashew and walnut with a bit of bottle age. Delish!

Diego Conterno is very much part of a revitalised group of winemakers in the Piemonte region. The estate has been working organically since 2010. Perhaps a portion of that revitalisation can be attributed to his son, Stefano, who joined his father the same year the estate started its conversion to organics - they became fully certified in 2014. You will find their vineyards in and around Monforte d'Alba, the pair tend to a modest 7.5-hectare area, with two of these making up the legendary site, Ginestra, which is very much considered a 'Grand Cru' site in the wine community. The winemaking here is very traditional: static fermenters and ever larger barrels (botte grande) for the maturation of their wines. The wines from Monforte are known for displaying a lot of structure, if you know anything about Nebbiolo that can often mean a tannic rollercoaster, but the duo's approach to gentle winemaking brings an elegant restraint to the wines. Diego and Stefano embody a blend between tradition and an exciting, modern approach to winemaking.