This is a beautifully earthy, lifted expression of Garnacha (Grenache), and one that represents a relaxed, unpushed approach to winemaking. There is a lovely purity of fruit here, with fresh redcurrant fruit and wild strawberry supported by a super attractive, twiggy, earthy character. This feels like natural wine, it's as clean as a whistle with a lovely balsamic finish.

Bodegas D. Mateos is a pretty smart outfit from Rioja and a perfect example of a wine producer that is firmly rooted in the tradition of the region, as well as has a creative approach that looks to the future. The estate was founded in 1886 when a small vineyard was planted, this represents their more traditional, rustic range of wines under the 'La Mateo' label. From there, the team have looked to pioneer and diversify their range, introducing a mono/single-varietal portfolio named 'IN'. Here they produce single-grape wines from Tempranillo Blanco and the rare Gratian as well as their trendy-looking 'Valcedon' and 'Vanidosa' ranges. Rioja is split into three smaller sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental (previously known as 'Baja'). You will find the winery and vineyards of the seven-generation Bodegas D. Mateos outfit in the latter of these three sub-regions: the Oriental. The average vine age across Mateos' vineyards comes in at 45 years old - remember, the older the vine, the greater the concentration and quality of fruit.